The Cultural Geography of Consumption
by Norman Berdichevsky (May 2008)
For almost two centuries, the coffee-tea dichotomy has been one of the firmest markers of the cultural divide between
A traditional field of research interest for cultural geographers and anthropologists has been the study of dietary patterns, particularly what has been termed “foodways”, “the modes of feeling, thinking and behaving about food that are common to a cultural group.” Coffee and tea consumption have become deeply ingrained national habits and psychological traits. A brief glance at world-wide statistics reveal that almost all countries exhibit a preponderance of consumption for one or the other. The preferences that exist are not the result of familiarity with an indigenous product nor do they show any clear cut relationship with price. The introduction and diffusion of both these drinks in the major importing nations goes back no further than three centuries yet the two beverages have become an intimate part of social conviviality as well as an integral daily part of the work routine and relaxation.
Everyone who has traveled by air is familiar with the after-meal routine of the stewards (or are they servers, or stewardesses?) weaving along the cabin aisles asking their perennial question “Coffee or Tea?” Both provide a ‘stimulant’ that is not a result of pharmacological properties but the psychological effect which has become culturally established. The Red Cross in the
The Cultural Geography of Consuming Areas*
Tea is the overwhelming choice in the areas of Russian and Slavic culture in
The coffee drinking world of Western Europe reaches its apex in France and Belgium with consumption ratios of more than 20:1 in coffee’s favor of cups consumed, followed by Iceland, Norway, Sweden and Finland.
More Than a Thirst Quencher or Nutritive
Both coffee and tea have served as more than just thirst quenchers. Neither can be considered as a nutritious drink (apart from the milk and sugar that may be consumed at the same time). The consumption of tea in Great Britain during World War II was heaviest directly after air raid attacks so that the government, which had already introduced rationing, appealed to the public to voluntarily limit consumption to the barest minimum during the daytime so as to have enough tea for the night when need was most critical.
The psychological effect of ‘calming’ is quite remarkable when physiologically, coffee and tea are supposed to be stimulants of the first magnitude. What is decisive is the sense of well being derived, which is clearly a function of culture. This close association between the drink and its social role has been upset only by violent revolution — as occurred in
Cultural Foodways
Tastes in food consistently show more persistence and vitality than language or other customs of the ‘old country’ and often function as the strongest link of identification with the ethnic heritage of the past. One finds it very difficult to reject the food and smells of mother’s kitchen planted deep in the subconscious. The deep identification of these two beverages with national character is all the more remarkable since both are relatively recent introductions. No Europeans apart from intrepid adventurers and explorers had any familiarity with either beverage before the sixteenth century.
In December 1921, communist terror groups in
Tea as a British Habit
Before World War II, a tourist asked to list what appeared to be characteristic English idiosyncrasies would probably have enumerated driving on the left, the currency system of pounds, shillings and pence, the English system of weights and measures, the political power of the hereditary House of Lords, conservative fashions in clothing, music and design and an extreme partiality to tea. Many of these traditions date back hundreds of years but have crumbled and others may not stand the test of time much longer but no one would imagine an
The rage for tea in the U.K. had reached such proportions that it led to “Everything Stops for Tea”, a popular hit song of the 1930s, made famous by Mario “Harp” Lorenzo and His Rhythmics”……
Oh, A lawyer in the courtroom in the middle of an alimony plea,
has to stop and help ’em pour when the clock strikes 4:00
Its a very good English custom,
Though the weather be cold or hot,
When you need a little pick-up,
You’ll find a little teacup
Will always Hit the Spot!
The American tea trade is painfully aware of a prevailing American attitude that tea drinking is a ‘British’ habit that has to be overcome. Hugh Gibson, the American ambassador to
The great American humorist, Will Rogers, on a visit to
“An American humorist who has his serious interludes, lately observed that English statesmen are wonderful, English gardens lovely … but English coffee the worst in the world!”. His words have been re-echoed in
Will
Cultural Fashion in a Global World and Price
What happens when cultural groups with opposing food tastes clash? Tastes in food, like other cultural traits tend to be maintained unless modified by disruptive factors, primarily through the disorganization of traditional institutions that generally follows cultural contact and culture change.
This has occurred on a world-wide scale and has reflected the enormous wave of American influence. Although never in a position to challenge tea’s dominance in Britain, “smart” coffee shops and a growing taste for the beverage have become a part of the younger ‘smart sets’ scene in Britain and elsewhere round the world. Coffee consumption in
Even earlier during the depression, American cultural exports to the UK including coffee’s many beneficial aspects had won a wide audience. The popular hit tune “Let’s Have Another Cup of Coffee” helped English speakers in both
“Let a smile be your umbrella,
Oh it’s just an April shower
Even Johnny Rockefeller is looking for the silver lining
Mister Herbert Hoover says now is the time to buy
So Let’s have another cup of coffee and another piece of pie.”
The famous depression-era song was written by Irving Berlin when something like 98% percent of American families consumed at least a cup of coffee during the day with or after a meal including 15 percent of children between 6 and 16 years of age. Big coffee companies were among the leading sponsors of radio shows such as The Maxwell House Show Boat that featured popular renditions of the song arranged by band leader Paul Whiteman, Fred Waring’s Pennsylvanians, Glenn Miller and band leader Phil Spitalny and his All Girl Orchestra who made the song equally popular across the Atlantic in
Whereas tea consumption was traditionally relatively higher along the East Coast and especially in the South where British traits from colonial times lingered, it too has ceased to be identified with a geographic area and has become more of an imitation of the perceived upper class/smart set habits.
The British taste for tea was a product first of the
The Role of Mercantilism
The seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were the heyday of “mercantilism.” Imperial preferences for tropical products in general especially, sugar, coffee and tea functioned well into the twentieth century. The
Later, the Spanish and Portuguese repeated the Dutch endeavor on a large scale by transplanting the two varieties of wild coffee, Arabica and Robusta from their African highland origin to Central and
The greed of the
Coffee in the
During the American Revolution, little or no tea was to be had at a time when new centers of coffee production in the West Indies and
Attempts by the East India company and other British interests to resume shipments of tea to America were handed a major setback by the War of 1812 by which time American merchant ships, anxious to avoid hostilities and the continued piracy by the Barbary pirates found it much more convenient and less risky to load shipments of coffee from Brazilian and Caribbean ports. American ships then began to ply the route to the Orient and engage in direct trade with
This American love of coffee has been immortalized in countless short stories, films, art (especially the work of Edward Hopper who immortalized a cup of coffee at the late night diner and automat). Songwriter, Lacy J. Dalton and singer Ella Fitzgerald combined their talents to make the song “Black Coffee,” a recognizable symbol of melancholy and longing in American life.
….Black Coffee, blue mornin’ Toast is burnin’ and the rain keeps pourin’ Bad feeling I’m losing you Black Coffee, green envy …Jealous of the way that you used to love me Bad feeling I’m losing you I don’t know if I can live without you…. …..Black Coffee, red warning No good news in the news this morning …. I don’t know if I can understand it. Don’t know if I can, know if I can If I could only think of one good reason to make this crazy love affair worth leaving. Oh,… you know that I would, you know that I would ….. I got this bad feeling I’m losing you ….Black Coffee, blue blue feeling…
Another American song to glorify coffee as the perfect compliment to an idyllic existence was performed by Nat King Cole; Teresa Brewer, Mel Torme, Ray Conniff, Gordon MacRae, Marlene Dietrich and Earl Hines who sang……..
You’re the cream in my coffee,
You’re the salt in my stew;
You will always be my necessity–
I’d be lost without you.
Brazilian-American Relations
The very close historic American-Brazilian relationship built around coffee exports was also highlighted in a hit number with crooner Frank Sinatra in his rendition of There’s an awful lot of coffee in
They’ve got an awful lot of coffee in Brazil
You’ll see no tomato juice,
You’ll see no potato juice
The planters down in
The politician’s daughter
Was accused of drinking water
And was fined a great big fifty dollar bill.
While
Globalization is Here to Stay
If globalization means anything, it is in the massive diffusion of what once were “national” habits and tastes for everything from sports to food and drink. Even a generation ago, few Americans who had never been to the
Who could have imagined (beyond the confines of Mad Magazine) that Tampa Bay Florida would become the franchise of a Stanley Cup Winning NHL Ice Hockey team?! Many Americans and Brits have today advanced to the point where they can enjoy both beverages on appropriate occasions and there are connoisseurs of both drinks on both sides of the
* author’s note – see Figure 3-7, Map of Tea and Coffee Consumption Outside the Major Producing Areas; p. 100; The Human Mosaic; A Thematic Introduction to Cultural Geography, Terry Jordan and Lester Rowntree, 2nd edition. Harper & Row Publishers.
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